The Rapid Hitch is available in four drop hitch sizes - the 4" drop/rise, the 6" drop/rise, the 8" drop/rise, and a full 10" drop. The 10" drop is recommended for lifted vehicles and has adjustment options from approximately 4" of drop to the full 10" drop. The 8" drop/rise is for cases where a truck is lifted, but not quite as much as the 10". The standard 6" drop/rise is designed to fit all factory standard pickup trucks. However, we have discovered that in some instances the standard Rapid Hitch might drag on the ground in a dip, so we have added the SUV Rapid Hitch to help eliminate this situation. The shorter SUV Rapid Hitch — featuring a 4" drop/rise — works best with most light trucks, 1/2 ton trucks, and SUVs.
Lets address the hitch being stuck in the truck. There are a several different options:
If you heat the hitch and pin using a torch a lot of times it will break the materials free and you can use a hammer and punch to remove the pin.
Use a Sawzall with a thin metal cutting blade to get between the receiver and the stinger of the rapid hitch to cut the pin. You can usually access it from the back side of the hitch.
Drill out the pin using a 5/8th drill. Suggest pre-drilling smaller holes first from the center out to keep the drill bit centered and prevent damage to you hitch.
Have a welder melt out the pin with an oxy acetylene torch.
The Rapid Hitch does not work well for the grounding of your trailer lights due to a few things:
Your trailer wiring harness to be inspected and have the ground (white) wire connect the trailer to the tow vehicle and that should stop all the problems of the lights be intermittent.
The zinc plating ball combo for the Rapid Hitch does scratch through to the base coat and eventually to the raw steel as the metal coupler of the trailer rubs the ball combo through normal use. The best option for those who want a complete rust-free unit is to use Greaseless Alumiball which is an aluminum ball combo with black caps on which allow the coupler to rotate freely without the metal on metal grinding. The only thing to watch for is the greaseless Rapid Hitch is a lower weight rating.
The coupler tube for the Ultimate 5th Wheel Gooseneck Connection is the part that connects the Ultimate Connection with the gooseneck ball in the bed of the truck.
On some occasions, the standard coupler tube included with the Ultimate Connection is too short to connect to the gooseneck ball.
If you need to change the height of your gooseneck ball or the coupler tube length isn’t enough for a proper connection, you may need a replacement coupler tube to extend the connection of the Ultimate Connection so it can attach to the gooseneck ball.
If you are considering purchasing an Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection or Ranch Hitch Adapter for your 5th Wheel, you will want to make sure to purchase an Ultimate Connection or Ranch Hitch that is compatible for your truck, trailer, and pin box setup.
Depending on the type of truck bed size and bed configuration, you will either want the Rail Version of Ultimate Connection (Part #: 3200), Gooseneck Mount (Part #: 3220), or Gooseneck Mount for flatbeds (Part#: 3221). The Ultimate Connect Gooseneck Mount.
As with any 5th Wheel hitch, there is a point beyond which every trailer will contact the tow vehicle. Each trailer is unique, so become familiar with your specific vehicle trailer limitations for turning clearance and side rail clearance.
This is kind of a grey area. Were tested as a fifth wheel hitch and are approved as a fifth wheel hitch. According to DOT regulations because it is a fifth wheel hitch does not need safety chains. However do utilize a gooseneck ball to secure the fifth wheel hitch into place creating a solid base with no moving points. On conventional gooseneck trailers chains are required due to the latching mechanism on the gooseneck trailer. The Andersen Ultimate Connection does not utilize a latch nor does it pivot at the point of the ball. Unconventional setup is much like the OEM puck system that is utilized to accept fifth wheel hitches sold in the newer trucks.
You can determine this by measuring from the center of your king pin to the nose of your trailer, and from the king pin to the side walls of your trailer, and also from the king pin to the end of the pin box (so you can see if it will hit the sides of your truck. Once you have those measurements, you with the appropriate dimensions.
You be able to get you enough cab clearance for your setup to avoid hitting the cab of your truck. Please make sure you are optimizing the offset that the hitch can provide, the hitch should be pinned in the rails with the ball closest to the tail gate (hitch can be rotated either way but in shorter bed trucks have the ball closest to the tailgate). Now look at the coupler block that is on the king pin of the RV and the ball socket should be towards the front of the RV in front of the king pin (like the base the block can be rotated 180 degrees to increase or decrease offset and you need the maximum offset available).
Do not recommend additional offset pin boxes to be used with Ultimate Connection. The only additional offset that will not cause such a negative towing experience would be using an offset gooseneck ball in the bed of the truck to provide the offset down low. The nose high attitude of the trailer is going to contribute to a terrible and sometimes unsafe towing experience also.
See the hitch at 50 ft-lbs torque as eventually the bolt could be stripped out.
The ultimate connection by design has areas where the powder coat does not reach well which causes rust in the corners of where the corners of the base meets the angled pipes that make the pyramid shape. The rust seems to come prematurely as the raw metal is exposed to the elements. The rust does not affect the structural integrity of the hitch but it does affect the aesthetics of it. Not concerned with the rust growing to such an area where the hitch is compromised in strength. Recommend that anyone who wants to have the hitch looking good that they brush away the surface rust and repaint the corners with a black paint that is similar to the stove.
Hitch is rated for the 14,000 gross and 1400 tongue weight as that is what the ball mount is rated to tow with all the safety factors built in as required by third party agencies.
Hitch controls sway by tongue weight and pressure on the chains so will go through scenarios that may cause sway and see if remedies for any of these can help.
Your Weight Distribution hitch should not be making any loud noises, especially loud squeaking.
Remove the cone from the ball housing. Once the cone is out, use some rubbing alcohol to clean the inside and outside of the cone and then clean the inside area of the ball housing. If you see anything unusual regarding wear or foreign objects, contact us. If it looks good (and you're welcome to send pictures) then just cleaning it should do the trick.
During the first several hundred miles of use the anti-sway material in the housing will 'creep' up as the ball seats itself into place and the ball will sink down into the housing. The amount of 'creep' will depend on the weight of your trailer and the type of roads you drive on. This is both normal and intended – and does not affect the use of your WD Hitch.
If you were not the person that installed the WD Hitch originally, go through each of the steps in the manual and make sure your set up matches the installation instructions. Also, make sure that when you set the brackets up in Step 4 of the manual that the chains are pretty tight (hand tight) before setting the brackets in place (this is more to give a good reference point for troubleshooting). The main thing here is to make sure that the top of the brackets are pulled back tightly (by hand) once the chain tension is maxed out.
Do not try to get the tow vehicle perfectly level, it is NOT necessary – just make sure that you are not too extreme in either direction (see pictures in the manual for reference).
Is the tire pressure of each tire on your trailer and tow vehicle up to par?
Check your load. Is there too much weight in the trailer or tow vehicle? If not, perhaps the load is too far to the front or back of the trailer or tow vehicle and needs to be distributed better. Remember it’s better to keep the weight shifted towards the front of the trailer than the back approximately 60% in the front and 40% in the back.
Ensure that the suspension of both the tow vehicle and trailer are in good working order, and adequate for your set up Bad suspension can result in the Weight Distribution Hitch not being able to properly even your load (and can cause unwanted bounce).
When it comes to most premier trailer hitches and towing products, most people think Andersen Hitches®. This family-owned, US-based company has been offering quality, American-made products for over 50 years. Since its founding, it has grown from a single room shop into a 102,000 square foot manufacturing and fabrication complex. Andersen Hitches currently serves the towing industry with a complete line of popular trailer hitches and unique towing products for trailers and 5th wheels. It takes pride in the simple, unmatched engineering designs, high quality and enduring value of its products.